Montreuil on the Mekong, or Siem Reap on the Seine?

The kingdom of Cambodia was a French protectorate at one time in its turbulent history. Cynics might rightfully claim that the rewards of colonialism probably served to benefit French hegemonic interests of the time more than any tangible returns Cambodia was able to secure to its advantage. That said, there are still charming vignettes of French cultural influence in the country, some of which are observed even in a touristy town like Siem Reap. One wonders what modern day Cambodians feel about the country's colonial past-is it a love-hate relationship? In the past, the ancient Khmer were also a territorial empire, having at one point ruled over much of present day Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. In fact, the very name Siem Reap means 'Siam defeated', an allusion to a victory wrought by Cambodian armies against a Siamese army from the distant past.

Those gigantic trees...

Scattered amid the temple ruins in Cambodia were immense trees that had somehow found their way as seeds in the niches of the temple structures, eventually growing to gigantic proportions. Many of these trees ended up being larger than the very temples that no doubt nursed them in their infancy, providing a foothold on which they could secure themselves. Trees with authoritative sounding names like Lagerstroemia calyculata, Dipterocarpus alata, Tetrameles nudiflora, Irvingia malayana. In the Khmer vernacular, these trees were more humbly, but also fondly, recognized by simple melodic names like chtheul and sralao. However one chose to call them, their majestic presence in the landscape was simply awe inspiring. They provided shade for the temples, as if expressing gratitude for allowing them to share sacred space. They also provided shade for the innumerable orchestras of land mine victims who played traditional melodies for tourists, as if compassionately acknowledging their plight with a protective embrace. Gentle giants with a heart of gold.

Khmer temples

Travelling to Cambodia is like going back through time and space to an epoch and a kingdom when Hindu deities reigned supreme, at least through their earthly incarnations in the medieval Khmer kings. These supreme leaders built the huge sprawling complex of Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples. The immense faces of the Bayon temple, which are believed to represent the various faces of the 13th century king who constructed them, inspire a sense of both benevolence and mystery in those who observe them. But most of all, they inspire a sense of terrifying serenity, if it were possible to experience such a paradoxical sensation. Tourists were aplenty, mainly from other Asian countries such as South Korea and China. Most of these tourists were shuttled from one site to another in very predictable waves. One would hear a crescendo of human voices as the tours came and went, to be replaced by the eerie silence of the surrounding jungles once the tourists were gone. When one visits such a unique place, it is best to be absorbed in the surroundings around you. As for the renowned Angkor Wat complex, the most familiar depiction is the full frontal view of the temples' facade. However, one finds nifty perspectives that capture the temple from unfamiliar angles, such as a side view of the temple complex framed on one side by the ubiquitous Cambodian sugar palm (Borassus flabellifer), bestowing justice to both the iconic symbol of Cambodia and the humble tree that nourishes so many of its inhabitants.